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Modica Cathedrals: The Historical Rivalry
Most Italian cities have a main “Santo Patrono” the patron Saint who is said to protect the city. Catania has St. Agata, which draws hundreds of thousands of devotees to the streets; Palermo has St Rosalia to whom the people of Palermo are extremely devoted.
What’s unique about Modica is that it has two Patron Saints and respective Cathedrals: San Giorgio (St. George) and San Pietro (St. Peter) and they’re also “enemies”!
Modica is a baroque town with two souls. The lower Modica Bassa with its numerous noble palaces, it’s historically considered the bourgeois part of town, once inhabited by the aristocracy. Whilst the common people dwelled in Modica Alta, in its maze of alleys and small houses.
This split was not only geographic and socio-economic but it also concerned the spiritual and religious dimension: People of Modica Alta were devoted to San Giorgio, whilst the people of Modica Bassa to San Pietro and for centuries both factions claimed that only their saint was the legitimate patron of Modica. Walking halfway between the two Modica cathedrals you’ll even find a sign that represented the “border” of the two territories. The “Limite delle Due Matrici”
The rivalry was so strong that the most devoted followers of one Saint, would forbid their sons or daughters to marry someone from the other faction!
Nowadays little remains of the rivalry (we’ll get there in a minute, when talking about San Giorgio’s yearly festival) and what’s left of this dichotomy is the great benefit for the city of Modica to boast 2 beautiful baroque cathedrals.
Modica’s Cathedrals: San Giorgio
Il Duomo di San Giorgio
The San Giorgio church of Modica is also known as “Duomo di San Giorgio” and like most of the stunning baroque building of the UNESCO World Heritage Area known as Val di Noto, its beautiful architecture is the result of the reconstruction of the cities of the areas, following the devastating 1693 Val di Noto earthquake in South Eastern Sicily.
How to Get to San Giorgio Modica Cathedral:
The easiest way is to drive to Modica Alta but in our opinion the best way is to start from Modica Bassa and climb up the small streets and stairs that from the side of San Pietro’s cathedral connect Modica Bassa and Modica Alta, leading from one church to the other.
Architecture of the San Giorgio Modica Cathedral
The Exterior of the San Giorgio Cathedral
Once you made your way through the narrow uphill streets leading to the church you’re faced with one last obstacle, the 181 steps. The view from the bottom of the steps is at its best in late spring of summer, when you can see and smell the beautiful flowers and take in a view worth it of a postcard.
From down there, you are will see the cathedral’s beautiful and imposing facade designed by Rosario Gagliardi, a true masterpiece of baroque architecture in Modica.
The Interior of the San Giorgio Cathedral
After climbing the steps and entering from one of the five ornate portals, you are finally inside the church. If visiting during the high season in spring of summer, you’ll experience an interesting mix of relief from the heat (especially after all those steps!) and awe. The 5 naves supported by 22 columns are adorned with intricate stucco work and beautiful frescos, in the center, the beautiful dome soars to a height of 36 meters adding to the monumental presence of the building.
Walking around the cathedral you will discover some hidden artistic treasures such as the Polittico of Bernardino Nigro, one of the church’s most prized possessions. 10 panels depicting scenes from the life of Jesus and the holy family:
Modica Cathedrals are filled with beauty and treasures and the Duomo di San Giorgio is no exception, walking around you’ll find plenty of paintings, frescoes and sculptures and also a marvel of art, science and engineering the sundial or “meridiana”
Every day at midday a beam of light passing through a small hole in the ceiling of Modica’s cathedral will land somewhere on this sundial showing what time of the year and which constellation we’re currently in.
Not all statues of this cathedral in Modica are destined to stay inside, matter of fact once a year the statue of San Giorgio riding his horse and killing a dragon plays a crucial role in Modica’s culture and folklore:
The San Giorgio Festival in Modica
Every 23rd of April is St. George’s day and on the following weekend Modica celebrates its patron Saint, well at least one of the two! On San Giorgio’s day the statue of the Saint is taken out of the church and is spectacularly revealed to the masses just outside of the cathedral. For the inhabitants of Modica it is a truly special moment: imagine the joyous crowds, the sound of fireworks, the thousands confetti and the smell of local delicacies offered by street vendors at every corner. It’s the cherry on top adding to the general optimism of being officially in spring and the prospect of 5 months of great weather ahead.
The statue is carried and shown around town by the “Portatori”, the most devoted of the lot, who take San Giorgio to “visit” various churches and landmarks in Modica and in exchange for carrying this literal weight on their shoulder they are given free arancini and glasses of wine along the way!
This is also the perfect day to witness what’s left of the rivalry between the two saints. On some years, when it’s time for San Giorgio to visit San Pietro’s church, you might find the devotees of Pietro standing on the stairs leading to the entrance, stopping the rivals from getting in and the San Giorgio’s porter reply by turning around and “twerking” the horse’s back towards San Pietro’s Church as a sign of disrespect. This doesn’t happen every year though and it’s heavily dependent on the intensity of local dramas and gossip.
Modica’s Cathedrals: San Pietro
Whilst San Giorgio’s yearly festival marks the start of good weather, the timing of San Pietro’s yearly festival has also a crucial role in Modica’s calendar. But first let’s talk about Modica’s “second” cathedral and its saint:
Il Duomo di San Pietro
The San Pietro cathedral of Modica is also built in the same baroque style as San Giorgio’s and it’s beautiful façade stands right in the heart of the city’s main tourist street: Corso Umberto Primo.
How to Get to San Pietro Modica Cathedral:
Chances are you will staying in this part of town when booking your accommodation in Modica so you will probably be able to reach by foot, however if you instead opted for one of Modica’s best beaches or for a country side stay, you will have to drive to the town center.
Architecture of the San Pietro Modica Cathedral
The Exterior of the San Pietro Cathedral
The steps to get to the church are way less than San Giorgio’s and instead of flowers and plants, what sets the exterior of this church apart is the “apostolato” the 12 statues beautifully spaced out, each one representing one of Jesus 12 apostles.
The façade of the cathedral although simpler than San Giorgio’s is another exquisite example of Sicilian late baroque architecture
The Interior of the San Pietro Cathedral
San Pietro has a total of 3 naves supported by 14 columns. The church is decorated with an abundance of paintings and frescoes depicting scenes from the old and new testaments as well as polychrome marbles. Make sure you look up and don’t miss the majestic ornamental pipe organ! The presence of fourteen means we have 7 bays in between them to explore, each one boasts beautiful works of art and chapels.
The San Pietro Festival in Modica
It is celebrated on the 29th of June and for the people of Modica is a key date because it officially signals the start of summer. On San Pietro’s festival the streets of the town center are filled with stands and stalls of various merchants selling street food, handmade goods and it’s a way for the inhabitants to have a joyful stroll among the baroque palaces of their beloved town, before moving to the seaside towns of Marina, Maganuco, Sampieri or Pozzallo. At least the lucky ones who own or can rent a summer house closer to the coast and enjoy the beautiful beaches of the area daily
Modica Cathedrals FAQ:
What are the opening hours of Modica cathedrals?
Both Cathedrals are opened from 9:30 AM to 7 PM. Timings may vary depending on when you are visiting, with longer opening hours in summer and shorter in winter. If you want to be sure aim to visit between 10 AM and 6 PMWhat are the opening hours of the cathedrals?
Is there Entrance Fee to Visit Modica’s Cathedrals?
There are no entrance fees for most churches in Modica, however starting July 2024 some of the churches, including San Pietro had an entrance fee of 2€ to 2.50€. This might change depending on the season so make sure to check ahead of your trip!
Are there Guided Tours for Modica Cathedrals?
Yes! Usually they are part of bigger tours that include other attractions.
Is there Entrance Fee to Visit Modica’s Churches?
There are no entrance fees for most churches in Modica, however starting July 2024 some of the churches, including San Pietro had an entrance fee of 2€ to 2.50€. This might change depending on the season so make sure to check ahead of your trip!
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